Twill Weaves

Appearance of Twill Weaves

Twill fabrics are characterized by diagonal lines (twill lines) on the face of the cloth formed by the floating (rising) of warp yarns over the filling yarns. The twill line is determined by the direction of the diagonal.

The angle of the twill is the result of the ratio of warp ends to filling picks. The comparative sizes of the warp and filling yarns will also affect the angle of the twill. Twill lines can be anywhere from 15–75 degrees. A 45-degree angle is considered a normal twill angle and anything higher is considered a steep twill and lower angles are reclining twills.

Twill weaves are designated by what is known as a counter. A counter of a twill designates the order of weaving of the first end of the repeat.

Types of Twill

• 2×1 Twill
• 2×2 Twill
• 3×1 Twill
• Left-Hand Twill
• Right-Hand Twill

2×1 Twill

The 2×1 twill is the simplest of twills. It repeats on three ends and three picks. The weave pattern for each warp end is warp yarn on top for two picks and under for one pick.

The opposite of a 2×1 twill is a 1×2 twill. The 2×1 twill is a warp-faced twill and the 1×2 is a filling-faced twill. These are the same fabric, just opposite sides.

In twills, the first number represents the number of warp risers on the first warp end of the repeat. The second number is the number of warp sinkers following the risers on the same warp end.

The graph below represents a 2×1 right-hand twill:

2×2 Twill

The 2×2 twill is a balanced twill. It repeats on four ends and four picks. Each warp yarn rises over two picks and then sinks under two picks.

3×1 Twill

This twill repeats on four ends and four picks. The weave pattern for each warp end is warp yarn on top for three picks and under for one pick.

Left-Hand Twill

Left-hand twill is a fabric with a twill line running from the lower right-hand side to the upper left-hand side of the fabric. Also called S twill.

Right-Hand Twill

Right-hand twill is a fabric with a twill line running from the lower left-hand side to the upper right-hand side of the fabric. Also called Z twill.

Twill Variations

• Pointed Twill
• Chevron
• Herringbone

Pointed Twill

Pointed twill is a weave containing right- and left-hand twills where the two twills come together to form a point.

Chevron

Chevron is a 2×2 twill that is right-hand on the ends one through four and the weave reverses to a left-hand twill on ends five through eight. Notice that ends four and five form a point at the reversal.

Chevron is a weave pattern of pointed twill, creating a zigzag design. This weave is like the herringbone, but the pattern is not balanced like the herringbone.

Herringbone

Herringbone is a broken twill weave that is composed of several right-hand twills followed by several left-hand twills.

A 2×2 twill repeats on four ends and four picks. Each warp yarn rises over two picks and then sinks under two picks. The 2×2 twill is a balanced twill. A simple herringbone or pointed twill can be made by reversing the 2×2 twill from a right-hand twill to a left-hand twill.

In a herringbone twill, warp ends number one through four weave as right-hand. On warp end five, the twill reverses the harnesses so that risers become sinkers and warp ends six through eight step in a left-hand twill direction. Where the twill line reverses, the adjacent ends are in opposing positions of riser and sinker.

Herringbone weaves are broken twill weaves composed of alternating left- and right-hand twill to produce the herringbone pattern. This can be accomplished on a dobby loom using straight draw or by using a herringbone draw on a cam loom to produce the same effect.