Plain Weaves

Appearance of Plain Weaves

The plain weave is the oldest, simplest, and most often used woven structure. It repeats on a minimum of two ends and two picks. Adjacent warp yarns weave in opposition to each other. When one end is up, the adjacent ends are down. After the filling is inserted, the warp yarns switch positions.

Woven patterns are most often depicted on graph paper. When the warp yarn is shaded black, the warp yarn is up and the filling is down. When the warp end is up, this is referred to as a riser or float. When the warp end is down, this is referred to as a sinker and is depicted by a white square in the pattern.

Plain weave fabrics have the highest number of interlacings of any weave. The result of this dense weaving is a relatively low tearing strength, higher tensile strength, lower snagging, a tendency to unravel less, and a tendency to wrinkle more.

Plain Weave Variations

Basket Weave

The basket weave is a derivative of the plain weave. The most common of baskets is the 2 X 2 basket. The repeat area is four ends by four picks. All ends weave in pairs as do the picks. In basket weaves, if both filling and warp risers are equal, then the weave is considered to be a regular or balanced weave. Other regular baskets weaves are 3 X 3 and 4 X 4. All basket weaves are not regular. For example, a 3 X 2, or a 3 X 2 X 1 X 1, or a 3 X 1.

Oxford Weave

The Oxford weave is also a plain weave derivative. In this weave, two warp ends weave as one while each filling yarn weaves alone. In most cases, the warp yarns are half the size of the filling yarns.